Mead is the Viking warrior’s drink of choice. It’s what brings Norse people together to rejoice in victories and to honor the gods. Both symbolic and social, mead is a staple in Viking culture, even being referenced in Norse mythology.

What is it exactly though? Mead is a honey wine made by fermenting honey and water. It’s one of the alcoholic drinks with an older history than beer or wine. We’re going to explore how it was made during the Viking Age — though limited historical records require us to consider brewing methods used by other cultures and farther back in history while making educated assumptions about how the Norse brewed their mead.

By the end of it, you’ll know how mead is made, how it was so significant in Viking society, and how to homebrew your own mead.

Viking's Mead Making: How They Made It

There were several different methods used to make mead during the Viking Age. The variety could be due to resources available, preferred techniques, or experimentation.

Brewing Technique Used by Vikings

Evidence has been found that for fermentation, the Vikings would use wooden barrels or clay vessels. These provided an organic environment to ferment the honey where wild yeasts would emerge from the air or on the ingredients used.

Today, we have modern yeast strains readily available to us. Understandably, that wasn’t the case for Vikings so they had to find resourceful means. That might mean leaving the vessels unwashed or using logs with cracks that would collect yeast.

With fermentation possible with the right vessel and ability to create an organic yeast, the next element is flavoring. Vikings used a variety of fruits and herbs, including raspberries, elderberries, juniper berries, and the aptly yet undesirably named, mead wort. A variety of ingredients were added to develop unique aromas and deep flavors.

If this sounds like a lot of work, it can be. However, with mead being a staple in Viking culture, it is likely they developed techniques to ease the process. These might have been methods to transfer yeast between batches, as well as simply making it a communal effort to produce mead together. After all, it was commonly enjoyed as a community as well.

4 Types of Viking Mead

1. Traditional Mead

A classic honey wine is simple. Honey, water, and yeast. Given it’s the most simple type of mead, it was likely the most common of this time.

2. Melomel (Fruit Mead)

Expanding the traditional mead by adding fruit was a common way to incorporate deeper flavor into mead. A variety of berries were most common to provide a sweetness to the beverage.

3. Metheglin (Spiced Mead)

The Viking’s cooking often used a variety of spices such as cloves, cinnamon, and ginger, so it was likely that these were used in mead as well. Adding spices creates a more complex flavor and aroma.

4. Herbal Mead

Aside from fruits and spices, herbs may have been used for a more unique flavor profile. Rosemary and thyme were common in meals, so they were probably also used in mead recipes.

In any case, the base is the same: honey, water, and yeast. Beyond that, experimentation likely brought a variety of ingredients into meads. Those that appear to be most successful based on continued use today are the spices and fruits, though many enjoy the simple and timeless traditional honey wine.

Step-by-Step Guide to Brewing Viking-Style Mead

Let’s review the equipment, ingredients, and process from preparing to bottling to drinking your homebrewed mead.

Equipment for Homebrewing Mead

We’re going to provide you with recommendations for what you absolutely must have to homebrew mead, as well as some optional equipment. We’re going to step away from authenticity as well here a bit and opt for cleanliness and efficiency — but you’ll still get the full experience and right final product.

Altogether, even including the optional equipment, you can get all you need for less than $100, so we would recommend you get it all and be as ready as you can for this experiment.

Must-Have Equipment

You’re going to need a vessel and the supplies that go with it:

• Fermentation vessel: A glass carboy or a food-grade plastic bucket. Carboys are most common and “proper”, but are a little more difficult to keep sanitized. Plastic buckets are simpler and easier to use. Which you choose doesn’t matter much, but you need something. We are going to skip on the Viking’s traditional wooden barrel. This is the vessel that’s going to keep the mead mixture while it ferments.
  
• Airlock and stopper: This will allow carbone dioxide (CO2) to escape while keeping air out, preventing contamination throughout the fermentation process.
  
• Siphon tubing: This is the hose you would use for transferring from your vessel to bottles.
  
  

Sanitizing solution: The Vikings valued cleanliness, and so do we. Sanitizers will help avoid contamination and spoilage.

Optional but Helpful Equipment

• Hydrometer: Measure alcohol content and fermentation progress. It does this by measuring the gravity of the “must” — the unfermented honey and water mixture.
  
  
• pH strips: For measuring the acidity level of the must. You are typically looking for a pH of 3.5 to 4.5. The Vikings didn’t have pH strips, but if they did, they’d have more confidence in how their brew would end up.
  
  
• Bottling equipment: When your mead is ready, you’ll want to bottle it up. That means buying both bottles and caps or corks for storage. While you can use either to top the bottle, most prefer caps for their ease unless storing for a long period.

There’s always more you can possibly get: stirring spoons for mixing the honey and water, cheesecloths for open fermentation, mesh bags if you are adding spices or fruits to reduce leftover sediment, and autosiphons, bottling wands, and racking canes for easier bottling. Our goal is to get started homebrewing — we can worry about all the extras for your second and third brews.

Ingredients

You know the key ingredients already: honey, water, and yeast. There are specifics to keep in mind for each.

Honey

This can be a deep topic alone, but let’s focus on how we can get your first brew going. In the simplest manner, any honey can work paired with yeast. For the most authentic approach, you would use honeycomb or raw unpasteurized honey. Either can often be found in farmer’s markets and local grocery stores, though that may depend on where you live. In general, opt for something local and avoid generic brands.

Types of honey to look for include clover honey, sourwood honey, and buckwheat honey — but don’t let the type of honey slow you from starting. 

Vikings would let the honey and honeycombs produce the yeast, though we will recommend a yeast to make sure the process moves along smoothly for you.

For more detail on the specific types of honey:

• Sourwood honey brings a unique and complex flavor with notes of caramel and spice.
• Clover honey is light and mild with hints of floral notes.
• Buckwheat honey is dark and robust with a molasses-like flavor.
  

Water

If you’re using tap water, you should boil it first to let it purify. Ideally though, you can get spring or purified water instead. If you can, opt for spring water because the natural mineral content would best support the yeast.

Yeast

If you’re opting for the traditional wild yeast approach, you may consider adding a dozen organic raisins to help produce that yeast, along with the honey itself. If you’re considering a commercial yeast, there are many options available.

• Lalvin D-47 is common as a white wine yeast that ferments fairly quickly and fits well with a medium to dry mead. It helps the honey flavor come out further, which can work well for a traditional style mead. You may need yeast nutrient for this yeast.
• Lalvin EC-1118 is a champagne yeast that is neutral, avoiding disrupting the standard mead honey flavor. Expect a little stronger alcohol and a little more time to age.
• Lalvin K1-V1116 is a white wine yeast that works well for melomels (fruit meads). It will enhance the fruit aroma and flavors in your brew. You likely need yeast nutrient for this one as well.
• Lalvin 71B-1122 is a red wine yeast that you may consider for a melomel using darker fruits, like cherries and blackberries. Expect a more aromatic, smoother mead.

Don’t get held up on which yeast to use, or whether to use one at all. If you want a yeast, the simplest answer is to opt for the Lalvin D-47. If you want to experiment with other yeasts, it’s typically best to use a wine yeast because while ale yeasts can be used, they produce a sweeter mead. If you prefer a sweeter mead, we would recommend you adjust the honey-to-water ratio.

As far as how much to buy, that depends on how much mead you want and how you would like it to taste.

For a general guide:

• 1.5 quarts (48 oz or 1.4L) of honey
• 1 gallon (128 oz or 3.8L) of water
• 1-4 grams of yeast per gallon

A gallon of mead will result in 4 or 5 standard wine bottles (750mL). Alternatively, you can use 12oz (355mL) beer bottles to make it easier to share with friends. In that case, you would want 10 beer bottles ready to go.

Preparing the Mead Must

The must, being the unfermented honey and water mixture, needs to have the right proportions. Start with 1.5 quarts of honey and 1 gallon of water. This will produce a balanced, semi-sweet mead. If you like it sweeter, use less water. If you like it drier, add more water.

Keep one gallon of water as your baseline measure. For a dry mead, you would use 32oz (1 quart) of honey with 1 gallon of water. For a sweeter mead, you can use up to 80oz of honey with 1 gallon of water. You can scale your chosen proportion by gallon accordingly.

Mixing the must can be done either heated or cold-mixed. Heating the honey slightly can make it easier to get it out of the bottle. Cold mixing would preserve the honey’s aroma and flavor, though it lacks the sanitization of a boiling method. Beyond heating the honey, a boiled approach can be used. In this, you would heat a portion of the water sufficient enough to dissolve the honey and remove contaminants. You would then add the remaining water to cool the mixture and start the fermentation. For the Vikings, they may have used both methods, but cold mixing fits with organic fermentation, so if you’re not using yeast, you can move ahead with cold mixing.

Flavoring Your Mead

If you want to flavor your mead, you can use herbs, spices and fruits. Consider the right combination and timing to produce the mead flavor you’re looking for.

Traditional Herbs Used in Viking Mead

• Juniper berries provide a bitter flavor. They were common in Viking cooking and brewing alike.
  
• Mead wort (meadowsweet) brings a floral aroma and sweet flavor with hints of almond and vanilla. They are known for their medicinal properties.
  
• Yarrow introduces an earthy flavor.
  
• Heather contributes a floral and sweet flavor, similar to mead wort. It maintains more of the honey flavor than mead wort would.
  

Modern Herbs To Use In Your Viking Mead

• Rosemary and thyme are savory and aromatic. They are commonly used in Viking recipes.
  
• Chamomile brings a floral flavor and is well-known for its calming effects.
  
• Ginger adds spice and warmth. The Vikings likely had some exposure to ginger through their extensive trading experience.

Spice Up Your Norse Mead

• Cloves provide a powerful, warm flavor and aroma with slight sweetness and bitterness. You might extract the flavor from cloves by simmering them in the water before you create your must.
  
  
• Cardamom is very aromatic and adds a sweet flavor with hints of citrus and pepper alike. It’s a unique spice. You may add 2 whole cardamom pods or 4 crushed pods for each gallon of must.
  
  
• Cinnamon brings a warmth and slightly sweet flavor. You can try Saigon or Ceylon, and either will work with a sweeter mead. For a dry mead, Ceylon may be preferred. Saigon may have a slight woody spice to it. Focus on aroma rather than flavor. You can experiment any way about it. Ground is easier to add and you would have to use a lot of sticks for equal potency, but either can work.
  
  
• Cumin is both warm, earthy, and nutty. It can add a complex depth to your mead.
  
  
• Black Pepper has a sharpness to its flavor profile, introducing spice in a different way than you may find with other herbs.

Of course, you can use any combination of ingredients. That experimentation and creativity is part of the fun of making your homebrewed mead.

Fruits Additions for Homebrewed Mead

• Raspberries can provide a tart, fruity flavor.
  
• Lingonberries are from a small evergreen shrub that Vikings used in cooking and for medicinal purposes alike.
  
• Elderberries are dark and rich in flavor to add complexity into a mead.
  

Timing of Flavor Additions

When you add each ingredient depends on the ingredient and the mix of them. In general, a brewer might use two fermentation periods:

Primary Fermentation when additions will be more deeply integrated into the must, resulting in a wine-like flavor. This produces a strong flavor profile.

Secondary Fermentation when additions are added after the base primary fermentation, making the additions fresher and flavors more pronounced. If you use delicate fruits, this is how you would add them.

Brewing is art and science. You may include some additions during the primary fermentation phase and hold others for a secondary fermentation. Spices can be more challenging and best held until secondary fermentation.

Take cinnamon as an example. You should add it post-fermentation as it has anti-fungal properties that can inhibit the yeast. In high ABV batches, a single stick in five gallons can add plenty of punch, so you’ll need to taste it daily to get it to the right level, and then stop it. The same can be said of spices like nutmeg or cloves where a small amount can quickly become overpowering.

Fermentation and Aging

Good things take time. Good mead takes time, too. How long depends on your exact approach and recipe.

Fermentation Length

Your primary fermentation period will last between 2 to 4 weeks. This is when most active fermentation happens, where you’ll notice bubbling and foam formations at this stage. The bubbling in the airlock is carbon dioxide (CO2) escaping. Expect more bubbling early on and for it to taper off in time. Foam is normal as well and should also dissipate as fermentation slows as well.

Your secondary fermentation stage may last a few weeks to a few months. This is when you may add additional ingredients and allow the flavors to mature. At the end of the secondary fermentation you will begin racking to clarify the liquid further. Some end their meadmaking journey at this phase, and others go into an aging phase.

Aging is a separate stage from secondary fermentation, though it tends to overlap. The aging timeline could be a few months or a few years, with most being six to twelve months long. In this stage, flavors mature further, the mead can become clearer, and additional sediment (“lees”) can be separated.

If you purchased a hydrometer, you can use that to monitor the fermentation process. You are looking for a stable reading over several days to confirm fermentation has completed.

For proper fermentation conditions, keep your mead between 55-65°F (13-18°C) while fermenting and aging. While aging, store the mead in a cool, dark place. To prevent oxidation, it’s best to minimize headspace — the space in a container above the liquid.

Racking the Mead

Racking the mead is when you transfer the liquid from the vessel you made it into another. This is done to remove sediment, or lees, that accumulates at the bottom of the vessel. This is the first step to clarifying the mead, preventing unwanted flavors, and to prepare the mead for aging.

Siphoning mead is done using the siphon hose. Some will purchase a racking cane as well for this process. The goal is to transfer the clear liquid into a new vessel without disturbing the sediment.

How you will siphon your mead depends on the equipment you have. Autosiphons are common now to simplify the process. Racking cans can be used to be inserted into the mead, just above the sediment. A simple siphon can also be used with the proper technique. Whichever method you choose, be sure to sanitize your equipment first. Clean supplies are always important. Let the transfer continue until most of the clear mead has transferred and leave behind as much sediment as possible.

If you want your mead to become clearer, you can do a few things. One is simply to perform multiple rackings. Each racking should leave sediment behind. You can also store the mead in a fridge at 38-40°F (3-4°C) for a week or two. This will stabilize the mead, helping more sediment settle at the bottom, clarifying the mead further with a final racking to follow.

Aging Mead for Better Flavor

After racking your mead, you can begin the aging stage in its new vessel. You can use a glass carboy or a stainless steel keg. It will need to be kept in a cool, dark place between 40-60°F (4-15°C).

How long you age your mead depends on the type of mead:

• Traditional Meads: 6 months to 2 years
• Melomels (Fruit Meads): 6 months to 5 years
• Metheglins (Spiced Meads): 6 months to 1 year

The aging process will help improve flavors and smoothness. Several things will happen: 

1. Acidity will become more balanced, which helps improve mouthfeel.
2. Flavors blend further for a more complex taste profile, particularly when using fruits and spices.
3. Alcohol will become more tame, reducing the typical “burn”.

It’s your choice on whether the flavor and mouthfeel improvements are worth the wait. 

Remember that aging continues after mead is bottled, so you may shorten the overall aging process when moving to bottling and let some individual bottles continue longer.

Bottling and Drinking

It’s time to bottle your mead! You can use glass or ceramic bottles. Avoid plastic as it may release chemicals into your mead — plus, you’ve worked hard on your creation and it deserves a proper final vessel.

• Ceramic bottles can provide a unique aesthetic. Glass is simply easy and clean. You might consider saving wine bottles, beer bottles, or champagne bottles.

You can use corks or swing-top caps to seal your mead.

• Corks are aesthetically pleasing and a good choice for continued aging. However, they can be more costly and could become dried out and brittle if not stored properly.
• Swing-top caps are as they sound — caps that swing from the neck and over the top, tightened down for a strong seal. They are known as Grolsch style caps as well. This also provides a unique aesthetic, while also being easy to open and close. They’re also reusable, so you’ll be ready to go with your next batch. Unfortunately, they are not great for long-term use as the rubber gasket can break down and they allow more oxygen into the bottle compared to corks or crown caps.
• Crown caps are what you see on beer bottles with the ridged edges. They’re cost effective and provide a tight seal. However, they’re not good for ongoing aging, nor for use on any vessels other than beer bottles.

Use corks if ongoing aging is your main concern. If you have a carbonated mead, a beer bottle with crown caps or champagne bottles with corks can work. In most cases, swing-top caps and bottles are preferred by new and veteran meadmakers.

When Should You Drink Freshly Bottled Mead?

Now that your mead is bottled, you should start to enjoy it! But when exactly?

If you leave your mead unopened, it has a shelf life of several years. Once opened, if you use a resealable Grolsch bottle, consume it within two weeks. The best time to consume mead depends on the type:

• Dark meads can age for years. Don’t worry about these, unless you start counting in decades.
• Light meads are best within one or two years.
• Melomels (Fruit Meads) are best within 3-6 months while fruit flavors are still fresh.

Serving Suggestions

It’s time to enjoy your mead! How you enjoy it depends on your personal preference, including the temperature to serve the mead and meals to enjoy with it.

Mead Temperature

• Light meads, like a traditional honey mead, are best served chilled around 40°F (4°C). This helps elevate the flavors, which tend to be subtle.
• Meads in general can be enjoyed like red wine at room temperature or slightly less. Try your mead around 55-65°F (12-18°C). This is particularly good for spiced meads.

Common Homebrewing Mistakes You Should Avoid

Mistake 1: Using too much or too little honey

Too much honey makes a mead overly sweet. It might not ferment fully as well. Too little honey makes a mead too dry and too thin of a mouthfeel. Using a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity of the must can help to ensure you have the right honey-to-water ratio.

Mistake 2: Not sealing the fermentation vessel properly

Improper sealing can contaminate the must. It can also cause oxidation, which will affect both the flavor and clarity of the mead. Be sure the airlocks fit to the vessel properly to prevent this.

Mistake 3: Racking or bottling before fermentation is complete

The hydrometer can again help to confirm when fermentation is complete by measuring for stability over several days. If you bottle too soon, fermentation may continue in the bottle and can put the bottle at risk of exploding due to the carbon dioxide buildup.

Mistake 4: Pouring the mead directly to a new vessel

If you skip using a siphon, you will introduce oxygen to the process, while also bringing up sediment. This will have unfavorable effects on oxidation and flavor. Using a siphon will help to avoid this, though you may also want a racking cane to make the process easier.

Mistake 5: Leaving too much headspace

Excessive headspace — the space from the top of the liquid to the top of the vessel — can be problematic. The space leads to oxidation. If you fill vessels to the top and minimize headspace, you can significantly reduce this risk.

Mistake 6: Not monitoring temperature

You need to watch the temperature through each stage of the process. Improper temperature can affect the yeast, flavor, shelf life, and overall quality of your mead.

Closing Thoughts on Viking Meadmaking

Making mead It’s a form of alchemy that can connect us to what Vikings had done a millennia ago.

Work through the meadmaking process and return to this guide as you go through each stage. Don’t overly stress getting everything perfectly right. You can always create additional batches, improving your skills and experimenting with different flavors and techniques.

If you create a batch, let us know on our Instagram @VikheimOfficial by tagging #vikheim on your post.

For more Viking and Norse-related culture guides and exploration, join the Vikheim community.

While many people learn about Viking culture through movies and TV shows, the historical accuracy of this media isn’t always strong. There is a great deal we now know about what Vikings wore for clothing, jewelry, and adornments.

There are specific materials used, types of clothing, and ways of putting together a historically accurate Viking appearance. All of this has been confirmed over time through burial finds, artwork, and literature. We’ll break down each of these below.

 

What Materials Vikings Used

Vikings were resourceful, finding resources in their environment to use for clothing, shoes, and jewelry.

Wool and linen were most common for clothing.

Wool provided warmth and durability for the harsh environment and weather conditions the Norse found themselves in at home and during travels. Linen, on the other hand, is a more breathable material, providing coverage without keeping heat in too much. Like today, the materials worn and layers depended upon the weather.

Leather

Shoes were often made with leather produced from goats, sheep, and cattle. Again, the use of leather was based on the need of durability due to their environment. Additionally, both linen and wool would be woven into the shoes to provide additional comfort and insulation.

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Norse jewelry was created from a variety of materials

Precious metals, pure metals, alloys, and natural elements

Vikings were skilled metallurgists, using a range of metals for different purposes, including weapons and tools as well.

For jewelry specifically, silver was the most common precious metal, with gold being used occasionally as well and typically for the wealthier Vikings.

Iron, as a pure metal, was common for everyday items and tools because of its durability and economic accessibility. Bronze, an alloy of copper and tin, commonly appeared due to its durability and strength as well.

Beyond metals, the Norse used organic resources such as:

• Amber
• Glass beads
• Animal bones, claws, and teeth

Amber was sourced from Scandinavia’s Baltic Sea and used in necklaces, pendants, and rings. Using flameworking techniques, artisans created glass beads used in necklaces. Finally, one of the other common resources used were from animals, including both bones, claws, and teeth. Beads, pendants and necklaces would be carved, often with rune designs engraved within them.

What other materials would you see during this time?

Shells, antlers, horns, wood, and even Walrus ivory.

Remember, Vikings were not just notorious raiders, but dedicated traders as well.

Nordic Dyes and Colors

During the Viking Age, a variety of techniques were used to incorporate colors into clothing. Natural colors came from materials like wool, such as white, brown, and gray. For other colors, plants commonly provided a color basis, while mordants like iron and copper were used to meld dyes into fabrics.

Common plants and colors included Woad for shades of blue, madder for oranges and reds, weld for yellows, lichens for purples, and walnut shells for browns. Other plants could be combined to achieve greens, oranges, and pinks, though they were less common.

Clothing for Men and Women in the Viking Age

Viking Men’s Clothing

The average male Viking outfit can be broken down into three categories: the base layer, the top layer, and accessories.

The base layer is composed of a tunic, trousers, and footwear. The tunics were fairly long, falling to the knee, and created with either wool or linen. Trousers could be either loose-fitting or tight and also made with wool or linen. Leather footwear would complete the base layer for the outfit. Turnshoes were most common, created from a single piece of leather. Boots were worn as well, though not as commonly.

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The top layer brings us to cloaks and mantles, which helped manage the harsh weather conditions of Scandinavia and during the Vikings’ travels. These were worn for both warmth and protection. On the sea, there’s an element of water resistance, and in battle, some light protection, though limited in both instances. Blue, red, or fur-lined cloaks would signal a level of status and wealth in Nordic society.

Accessories were many, including jewelry, belts, leg wraps, and brooches. Jewelry would have included necklaces, pendants, arm rings, rings, and brooches. Metal brooches would be used as a clasp to fasten cloaks. Leg wraps, also called winingas in Old English and Vindingr in Old Norse, were worn around the calves. They provided further comfort and warmth, with functional benefits for movement at work or combat alike. An outfit is complete finally with a belt, worn around the tunic to support the clothing, for functionality to carry tools and weapons, and as a status symbol for wealthier Norsemen.

Viking Women’s Clothing

For Viking women, a variety of dresses and accessories were worn, created with both practicality and aesthetics in mind.

The women’s base layer was typically some type of apron dress, called Smokkr in Old Norse. These were worn over a long, linen underdress called a Serk. The serk could have been plain or pleated, depending on the region of Scandinavia it was designed in. The apron dress and accessories is where more intricate designs would be incorporated. 

As a top layer, shawls and cloaks were worn. Like with the men’s cloaks, added warmth was a key reason for their use, as well as general protection from the elements. Cloaks and shawls alike were commonly made with wool, but linen would also be used. Shawls, cloaks, and dresses were fastened together with brooches, which added both aesthetic appeal and symbolism to an outfit. Brooches would also be adorned with beads to enhance their beauty.

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The Viking woman’s outfit would be completed with accessories, including necklaces, pendants, rings, and hair accessories, as well as pouches for carrying items. Excavation sites have found small items near the waist of Viking women, indicating that pouches, bags, or purses made of organic material may have decomposed over time.

Myths vs. Reality: Common Misconceptions

While we appreciate how Hollywood has introduced Viking culture to millions of people, there’s a lot that is misinterpreted along the way. Perhaps nothing is more prominently displayed while being a complete work of fiction as the horned helmets. No, Vikings never wore horned helmets.

There are simpler elements of Viking attire that are not accurate as well, though. Vikings did wear fur and leather, but not to the extent as you’ll see on the screen. It gives a nice look, but Vikings wore more practical clothing. Likewise, the Nordic culture valued grooming and cleanliness, so those dirty Vikings with tattered clothes also are not necessarily representative.

Footwear was commonly shoes, while we often see Vikings in boots. Boots were worn, but not the norm. Just the same, gold and silver jewelry was worn, but typically by the wealthier Vikings only. The majority wore jewelry created from natural materials like bone and amber.

As a final note, the Vikings did not have a single, uniform look. Their looks varied by region, as well as by person. Individual style was shown by what was worn and the variety of colored dyes they used. By region, a Viking from Denmark or living in Ireland may not have visibly comparable attire.

How to Recreate an Authentic Viking Outfit

So, you want to create your own Viking outfit while remaining historically accurate? That’s completely possible. You might want to decide how close to 100% accurate you want to be or if you’re okay with some modern interpretations and simply having fun with your style. After all, Vikings were adventurers and traders who didn’t fit a single mold, so you don’t need to either.

Let’s work through the outfit if you want to prepare for a reenactment

• Base Layer

Men: A tunic, trousers, and turnshoe-like footwear.

Women: An apron dress and an underdress.

• Outer Layer

Men: A cloak or mantle.

Women: A shawl or cloak.

• Accessories

Men: Jewelry, belts, leg wraps, and brooches to affix to your clothing.

Women: Jewelry, hair accessories, pouches, and brooches to affix the shawl, cloak, and dresses. 

Viking-era clothing was practical, durable, and suited to the harsh Northern climate. Rather than the horned helmets and heavy metal armor of popular imagination, everyday Norsemen and women dressed in layered wool, linen, and leather with intricate patterns that reflected their culture and status. 

Knowing what the Norse really wore gives us a clearer picture of not only their daily lives and resourcefulness but also of the complexity of their society. Their garments were not just for survival but also a means of expression, identity, and adaptation.

The Viking Age took place from the years 793 to 1066. In that time, a variety of weaponry was developed, but none as notable as the bearded axe known to Norse as the Skeggøx.

In Old Norse, skegg translated to “beard” and øx to “axe”. Thus, the aptly named Skeggøx is known for its bearded blade that was creatively useful in combat and daily life alike.

Skeggøx’s Origins

We go to the year 600, before the Viking Age began, to find the first instances of the bearded axe that would become the go-to Scandinavian tool. It has been found that the bearded design was used in tools for agriculture, forestry, and woodworking. By the years 700-800 CE, the evolution into a weapon began as shown through grave finds in Denmark and Norway. It appears natural that as the Viking Age began and raiding expanded, the crafting of weaponry extended as well.

Axe Design

Look to the blade to identify a Skeggøx. They were designed to be lightweight and versatile, weighing only 1-4 lbs (0.5-2 kgs) with a 6-inch (15-cm) blade, though they were designed as small as 3-inch (7.5-cm) to 9-inch (22.5-cm) depending on the origin, time period, and use. The “beard” is the inner edge of the blade under the neck. In a Skeggøx, it has a drastic curve that gives it its distinct appearance.

The longer blades, 6-9 inches (15-22.5 cm) allowed for different use. The larger, heavier blade with a narrow edge enabled deeper cuts through armor in combat. The beard itself allowed for creative tactical use, hooking onto shields for control of an enemy’s main defense, or even disarming them entirely. In woodworking and shipbuilding, it would allow for easier shaping of timber.

Differences Between Bearded Axe and Other Axes of the Era

Bearded Axe	Dane Axe	Francisca Axe	Mammen Axe

Dane Axe

While there are reports of large Skeggøx blades up to 12-inches or 30-cm, these are likely Dane axes or broad axes. The Dane axe is designed to be two-handed with a larger blade, up to one foot in length, and used specifically for battle. They were heavier, around 2.2-4.4 lbs (1-2 kg), remaining lightweight but enhancing its power in combat. The long haft of  3-5 ft (90-150 cm) provided further leverage for devastating blows on the battlefield.

Francisca Axe

The francisca or francesca throwing axe was a weapon of the Franks. It was commonly used during the reign of Charlemagne (768-814 CE), overlapping with the start of the Viking Age. It also featured a beard, though shorter and less pronounced than the Skeggøx.

Mammen Axe

The Mammen Axe isn’t a type of axe, but an axe identified by its artistic styling. Named after a burial find from 970-71 CE in the village of Mammen in Denmark. An axe found here was made of iron with an intricate silver inlay. The style was prominent in the years 900-1000. Mammen Axes are the perfect Viking culture depiction, combining both art and war.

 

The Skeggøx Use in Combat

The Skeggøx was a tactical tool on the battlefield. Its style allowed versatility. The lightweight versions may have been used for throwing. 

Tactical Advantages

While not as deliberate as the Frank’s francisca axe, the size and weight allowed for this as a creative or last-ditch move. More commonly, the Skeggøx’s beard would hook onto shields or rip weapons out of their opponent’s hands. This could throw the opponent off-balance while exposing them without protection. That’s where the precision of a cut from the Skeggøx’s balanced weight and sharpened blade could land finishing blows. Held closer to the head of the axe, the Skeggøx becomes a dangerous weapon in close-quarters. It is truly a versatile tool for the Viking warrior.

Use in Daily Life

The Norse are well-known for their shipbuilding and woodworking, which the Skeggøx was used for extensively. The beard allowed for precise cuts and shaping of wood, whether for building a ship or home. Additionally, they were used in hunting to kill and process animals, including both butchering and skinning. And on the farm, the Skeggøx could help clear forests, chop down trees, and split logs for fire. It was a multifaceted tool at home, too.

A Significant Item for Every Viking

Axes were an important part of the Viking’s arsenal, and the Skeggøx was one of the most prominent axes of the time. Mentioned in the book of Viking poems, the Hávamál, axes were suggested to also be held close. It was common in burials to place an axe with the fallen warriors. From burials and archaeological digs, we’ve discovered that axes outnumbered swords three-to-one.

The Skeggøx remains a meaningful element in Viking culture, recognized by its distinct shape, and known for its versatility. While not the only axe used by Vikings, it’s worth being part of any Viking’s armory.